I’m so lucky ! In dire need of some holiday, I’m making my
way to the next place with ‘S’: Sovata, a spa-town with a thermal salt lake and
great walks. I was quite frustrated after realizing, that to travel there will
take me 8 hours, and 5 changes, even if it is only 200km !!!
In my desperation
I digged deep into my resourcefulness and the www, and discovered a Romanian
car sharing service, and a couple who drove on the right day, to the right hour
along the right road !!!
Well, I arrived after 2 ½ hours travel in a Dracula Fairy
tale place. On my first walk round heaven opened its gates and flooded the
whole village - this topped the best London shower I have ever experienced -
where is my sunshine !!!!
Today I spoke in Romani to Romanian Roma ! I was walking 3x
past, before I could gather the courage to actually approach them. I asked them
if there is Gypsy music in Sibiu and around and they said no. I also told them
that I play, which earned me big smiles.
I only took a picture from far away as I felt stupid asking
them to take their pic.
They looked amazing, in their black hats, and typical colourful long dresses
and head scarves.
Later I went to Michelsberg (Cisnadioara), the village which
apparently looks like Bavaria 100 years ago…
Up, in the castle, I was surprised to see the memorials of tons
of ‘Musketeers’. Up til then I knew them only as figures from the movie. I now have
learned, that they were soldiers armed with muskets…
I have left Magyarlapad, the village which is more Hungarian
than Hungary, and the people, geese and chickens, who mostly seem to live in the last century -
apart from the mobile phones….
I have arrived at Sibiu, an old Saxon town (Herrmannstadt),
to which I fell in love 10 years ago, when travelling through by train. Finally I’m made it, yeay !
It's an absolutely gorgeous town, however, if feels a bit dead, I thought - it took me a while to figure out why - THERE IS NO MUSIC ANYWHERE - I really think there ought to street musicians in the big beautiful Piata Marebe not in the big squares, or the cafes or restaurants...
I went to the village museum to learn about Romania in the last centuries...
… and here the Sibiu, just minutes before a heavy
thunderstorm…
Today, I ‘re-met’ a lovely local lady, Klara, who speaks
German, as she has been working for the harvest season at various places. Some
of those peoples are so hard working - every year they try to make some extra
money, to build or renovate one more section of their house.
Klara took me to her house and spoiled me with home-made
cakes as well as her cherry beer. Her
grandma had crafted traditional dresses, including headgear and jewellery -
amazing work. I tried on one of the costumes…
In the eve was the final show - all generations are dressed ore
or less traditional, and show off wild and skill-full dancing - to amazing life
music! See for yourself…
After many thunderstorms, I finally managed to go for a walk
in the hills.
I didn’t quite make my way to the top, as suddenly two huge wolf-dogs
appeared on the horizon, loudly barking.
They looked pretty respect-instilling,
so I decided not to cross them any further. After singing them a song (Mori Sokol Pie) and ensuring them, that I won’t have their little lambs as dinner, I
turned and made my way down. I realised soon that I forgot to take their
pictures, however, it was not the climb-up which prevented me going back…
Today I gave up on learning music here - it’s not an easy
thing for someone to achieve that I'm giving up on something! I arrived in the morning for
the lessons, just to be left standing around, whilst Mr should-be-tutor went away without a glance to play
with the kids....
It’s interesting that after 20 years of successful performing
and teaching in the weirdest situation, it still can make one feel quite
inadequate and worthless… well, reflecting back now, it’s actually quite funny... Went for a walk to explore the village instead...
In the evening, at the daily dance-house party, I solved an
important mystery: why do the dancing men perform facing the band, and
therefore turning the back to the audience? Well, see for yourself - this video
is dedicated to my dear friend Phillipa…
Today I managed to break some territory. From an alien I
developed into an alien-hero, after managing to get a drunken Hungarian safely
down the mountain, just before the thunderstorm broke out…
In the morning, the whole camp met, to walk up a mountain
(most actually were taking the tractor) to have a picnic, with music and dance,
and the food cooked on the fire. I bundled up with my newly found friend Aniko
and her lovely family.
As we gained height, we were exposed to more and more
amazing panorama. Once we reached the picnic place, her cousin was delivering
about 15 different species of grasshoppers to us, which were examined very
precisely from all directions - the objects posed patently for their photos to
be taken…
The son of the famous Hungarian singer/storyteller Andras Istvanjoined the group, and they
started to sing Hungarian songs passionately - it actually sounded more drunk
on lower alcohol levels then later; however, the passion was on highest level
throughout…
We rousted bacon over the fire, and finally ate the bean and
pork stew, which tasted delicious, even with all the Knorr artificial spice
which the men had put in.
By the time all had eaten, and part of the huge canisters of wine (80 litres!) were diminished, the space was too tight for dancing due to triple
vision and extra wide moves for balancing…
I met a few more people who actually spoke English or
German, and even some of the Hungarian-only’s started speaking to me, so I
think things will improve from now..
